Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
